Sacsayhuaman
November 21, 2018
Jenny Wong
Located a 30 minute walk uphill from the main square in Cusco (which can be quite a breathless march when dealing with the altitude), Sacsayhuaman was one of our favorite sites to explore on this trip. The Quechuan name translates to “Satisfied Falcon”, but most English speaking tourists remember it phonetically as “sexy woman”. The main attractions here are the spectacular views of Cusco and the long jagged fortifications, but it pays to take a few steps away from the crowds and explore what other things have been left to find.
The Incas built many of their cities in the shape of animals. Ollantaytambo is a llama, Machu Pichu is a condor, and Cusco is a puma. The jagged 6 meter tall walls of Sacsayhuaman were not only a strategic design to trap and ward off invaders, but they are also said to be the teeth of the puma.
Instead of heading straight to the fortifications, we decided to follow a herd of llamas who led to the Qocha, which means “lagoon” in Quechua. Some speculations say it was used as amphitheater, others say it was a water reservoir.
Chincana chica is a collection of underground tunnels leading away from the Qocha. These tunnels are pitch black, so a flashlight is mandatory for navigation. The nooks and crannies may have been used as a cemetery, but I tried not to think of that while we were stumbling around in the darkness.
The Rodadero rock slides are a unique rock formation that look like frozen waves of stone. The smooth channels form the perfect natural rock slide, although don’t get your hands caught in the cracks on the way down!
From the top of the rock slides, looking down into the Qocha.
These stone benches are labeled as the Inca’s throne, but other research suggests they may have been altars.
Some of the fortification stones can weigh up to 300 tons, which meant that a lot of the foundations remain.
An example of the stone floor work.
Out of the places we visited, Sacsayhuaman had the best examples of just how perfect the Inca stonework can be.
Even the corners are carved to fit.
The view from the battlements overlooking the city, although I can't help wondering what these hills looked like during Incan times.
Muyuqmarka, the largest of of three stone towers built on this site. Now, only the briefest of outlines on the ground.
One of the final battles was fought against the Spanish here in 1536. The main plaza was littered with the dead and the loss caused the Incas to retreat to Ollantaytambo.
Taking a break and imagining what these ruins might have been like. The Spaniards tore down and destroyed around 80%, so in its original state, this place would have been massive.
Taking our leave via the gateway to the temple of the sun.